Recurring turbocharger issue on my Ritz diesel: Need advice on a fix12/01/2022
After the cut-off, the turbo will not function until I turn off and on the ignition and restart the car.
BHPian Shreeniwas recently shared this with other enthusiasts.
I own a Ritz VDi which has done close to 90k km. In the recent service, ASC performed EGR cleaning (It was suggested by them as the car was close to 90k km.)
After this service, the turbo cuts OFF with a blink of malfunction light as soon RPM hits 2500 rpm while driving irrespective of any gear. After the cut-off, the turbo will not function until I turn off and on the ignition and restart the car.
So I took the car back to the same ASC and they kept the vehicle for 3 days to fix. After getting the car back, took a test drive in the city limit and the issue seemed to be resolved. I was told ECU is reprogrammed and if the issue reoccurs ECU has to be replaced.
After this, I took the car on the highway, and the issue reoccurs! The issue doesn’t happen in 1st and 2nd gear but happens in 3rd / 4th / 5th gear.
Now is it really an ECU issue and should I opt for ECU replacement? I assume it is not a turbo problem as it is working fine in 1st and 2nd gear.
On a friend’s recommendation, I tried disconnecting EGR but that didn’t help with the problem. Only the check engine light came up until I connected it back.
Here’s what BHPian tharian had to say on the matter:
It sounds like it is not developing a boost when in low revs. Maybe there is a plumbing leak somewhere.
How is exhaust emission? Is it emitting black smoke when trying to rev the engine?
It can also be because the engine is running in limp mode. Best to connect to an OBD or ask the service centre to check the fault codes and take it from there. I don’t think the ECU can get an issue just like that.
Here’s what BHPian sagarpadaki had to say on the matter:
The first step is to check the fault codes/error codes. Ask the MASS to scan and analyze the error codes.
Check the plumbing from turbo->intercooler->intake manifold. If the hose is cut or damaged then there is a loss of boost, and the ECU might get conflicting signals and go into limp mode. I do not think there is any issue with the ECU
Check this video. Might be useful
Here’s what BHPian ashivas89 had to say on the matter:
Hey, something along similar lines had happened to my car (the engine would go into limp mode and not rev beyond 2,000-2,500 rpm).
The culprit? a rodent bite on the cable connected to the airbox sensor, the problem disappeared after soldering the wires inside the loom.
My ASC identified the fault, which was the MAF sensor acting up, via the OBD scanner.
Perhaps in your case, the cable moves around differently at different speeds leading to the kind of behaviour you are experiencing.
As already mentioned above, you can ask for the fault codes, get a second opinion at an FNG perhaps or visit another dealership’s SC.
Hope the issue is sorted out soon, all the best!
Here’s what BHPian eccentric had to say on the matter:
Hello there! My ’09 Swift VDi too witnessed the same problem after I performed
Intake manifold + EGR + intercooler + Turbo cleaning! IIRC, there were almost 3-4 sensors that are to be dislodged whilst the cleaning operation.
A simple loose connection in the High-pressure injection pump sensor – located somewhere in the intake manifold or the fuel rail assembly (I don’t recall exactly its position) was the culprit in my case.
It means that the sensor isn’t sending any signal to the ECU to activate the high-pressure pump, once the engine has crossed 1800-2000 RPM.
- Turn off the engine.
- Disconnect the battery and pause for 15 minutes
- Detach the wiring from the socket of the sensor
- Examine for any carbon deposits
- If any, use a non-live contact cleaner to dislodge the dust and allow it to air for 15 minutes
- Reconnect the wiring to the socket, followed by the battery reconnection
- Start the engine and allow it to idle for 5 minutes
- While in neutral, gently raise the throttle and check whether the revs climb above 2000 RPM and no CEL occurs in the instrument cluster
- Now, a full-blown test drive would do just fine
In my case, after inspecting the OBD codes, the mechanic just turned off the car, detached and reattached that sensor connection. That’s it. The car was back to normal.
All the best
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